PRATICAL GUIDE

MONEY AND COSTS

Costs
As far as a daily budget is concerned, backpackers staying in the cheapest guesthouses and eating meals at street stands can expect to spend in the region of €25 to €30 per person. Opting for a midrange hotel and smarter restaurants will push it up to at least €50. These costs are calculated on the basis of two people sharing a room; single travellers will need to budget extra. As soon as you jump to four- and five-star accommodation you’re looking at €175 per person at the very minimum.

Money
The Mauritian unit of currency is the rupee (Rs), which is divided into 100 cents. There are coins of 5, 20 and 50 cents, and Rs 1, Rs 5 and Rs 10. The banknote denominations are Rs 25, Rs 50, Rs 100, Rs 200, Rs 500, Rs 1000 and Rs 2000.

ATMs
Armed with your PIN, it’s perfectly possible to travel on plastic in Mauritius since ATMs are widespread. Even Rodrigues has a smattering of them. They’re mostly located outside banks, though you’ll also find them at the airports, at larger supermarkets and in some shopping malls. The majority of machines accept Visa and MasterCard, or any similar cards in the Cirrus and Plus networks, while Amex now has a tie-in with Mauritius Commercial Bank (MCB).

Credit cards
Visa and MasterCard are the most useful cards to carry, though Amex is catching up. Nearly all tourist shops and the more upmarket restaurants and hotels accept payment by credit card, as do car-hire companies, tour agents and so forth. Anywhere outside the main tourist haunts and small businesses still expect payment in cash.
A few places add on an extra fee, typically 3%, to the bill to cover ‘bank charges’. The cheaper car-hire companies are the worst offenders. To be on the safe side, always ask. Cash advances on credit cards are available from most major banks, including MCB, Barclays, the State Bank and HSBC. Just remember to take your passport.

Moneychangers
Major currencies and travellers cheques can be changed at the main banks, exchange bureaus and the larger hotels. Exchange bureaus sometimes offer slightly better rates than banks, but there’s usually little difference. Hotels tend to have the worst rates and may add an additional service commission. As a general rule, travellers cheques bring a better rate than cash. There is no black market in Mauritius.
Banks don’t charge commission on changing cash. As for travellers cheques, the system varies. Some banks, such as HSBC, charge 1% of the total, with a minimum of Rs 200, while MCB and the State Bank levy Rs 50 for up to 10 cheques. Don’t forget to take along your passport when changing money. And make sure you hang on to the encashment form, which will have to be presented if you want to change Mauritian rupees back into foreign currency at the end of your stay.

Taxes
Most items apart from unprepared food are subject to 15% VAT. There’s no clear rule about whether this tax is included in prices quoted for meals, rooms and activities. If it’s not clear, be sure to ask or you may be in for a nasty shock. Top-end hotels and restaurants sometimes add a service charge of about 10% to 15%.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Local transport

Taxi
It’s sometimes possible to imagine that every adult male in Mauritius is a taxi driver. Taxi drivers will often shout out at travellers they see wandering around Port Louis or Grand Baie, while ranks outside hotels usually overflow with drivers. Negotiation is key – meters are rarely used and you’ll usually be ripped off if you get in a taxi without agreeing a price. During the journey most cabbies will also tout for future business; if you aren’t careful you may find that you’ve agreed to an all-day island tour. If you aren’t interested, make this very clear, as many drivers won’t take no for an answer.
Many guesthouse managers/owners have attempted to mitigate their guests’ constant frustration with rip-offs by arranging prices with local taxi drivers. The quotes given under such arrangements, particularly those from small guesthouses, are often acceptable; they can usually arrange competitively priced airport pick-ups as well. Once you’ve got a feel for the rates, you can venture into independent bargaining.
Taxis charge slightly more at night and may ask for an extra fee if you want the comfort of air-con. It’s also worth remembering that some taxis charge around Rs 1 per minute waiting time. It seems minimal, but it adds up if you stop for lunch or do some sightseeing on foot. Your best bet is to negotiate a set fare with the driver that includes waiting time.

Hiring taxis
For between Rs 1500 and Rs 2800, you can hire a taxi for a full-day tour of sights around the island (the fare varies with how much ground you intend to cover). You can cut costs by forming a group – the price should not be calculated per person. If you want to squeeze a tour of the whole island into one day, keep in mind that this won’t leave much time for sightseeing. You’re better off splitting the island tour into three days. Once you’ve agreed to a price and itinerary, it helps to get the details down in writing. Most drivers can speak both French and English. If you want to go to a restaurant of your choice, you may have to insist on it. Again, small guesthouses can usually recommend a reliable driver.

Share taxi
When individual fares are hard to come by, some cabs will cruise around their area supplementing the bus service. For quick, short-haul trips they pick up passengers waiting at the bus stops and charge just a little more than the bus. Their services are called ‘share taxis’ or ‘taxi trains’. Mind you, if you flag down a share taxi, you’ll only be swapping a big sardine can for a small one, and if you flag down an empty cab, you may have to pay the full fare.

Bus & tram
Bus
It’s best to stick to express buses whenever possible, as standard buses seem to stop every few metres and can take up to twice as long to reach the same destination. To give an idea of journey times, it takes approximately an hour by standard services from Mahébourg to Curepipe, an hour from Curepipe to Port Louis and an hour from Port Louis to Grand Baie.

Long-distance buses run from around 6am to 6.30pm, though there is few late service Tickets are available from the conductor; keep some small change handy. Retain your tickets, as inspectors often board to check them. Press the buzzer when you want to get off.
The buses are single-deck vehicles bearing dynamic names such as ‘Road Warrior’, ‘Bad Boys’ and ‘The Street Ruler’. It’s perhaps not surprising that some drivers harbour Formula One racing fantasies; fortunately, the frequent stops slow things down a touch. Though the buses are in varying states of disrepair, the fleet is gradually being upgraded.
The buses are almost always packed, especially on the main routes, but turnover is quick at all the stops. If you start the trip standing, you’re likely to end up sitting.
Be warned that you could have problems taking large bags or backpacks on a bus. If it takes up a seat, you will probably have to pay for that extra seat. A few travellers have even been refused entry to a full bus if they have a large bag.

There is no country-wide bus service for Mauritius. Instead there are five large regional bus companies and scores of individual operators. Unfortunately, there are no published timetables available. Your best source of information is to phone the company or the umbrella body, the National Transport Authority (202 2800). Locals also usually know the best way to get from A to B.

Air
Mainland Mauritius has only one airport, the well-run Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport (mauritius-airport.intnet.mu). There are two domestic airlines, Air Mauritius and Catovair, both of which connect mainland Mauritius with the island of Rodrigues.

Air Mauritius also offers helicopter tours and charters from SSR International Airport and a number of major hotels. A full one-hour island tour costs Rs 26,000 for up to four passengers; a quick 15-minute jaunt will set you back Rs 10,000. For information and reservations, contact Air Mauritius Helicopter Services (637 3552; This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ) or ask AKD HOLIDAYS to organise a transfer or trip.

Car & motorcycle
By far the easiest and quickest way to get around Mauritius and Rodrigues is to hire a car. Prices are reasonable, considering the numbers of visitors who rent vehicles, but you should be able to negotiate a discount if you’re renting for two weeks or more.
Mauritian roads range from the one stretch of motorway – running from SSR International Airport to Port Louis and Grand Baie – to heavily potholed minor roads. Even on the motorway you’ll find people wandering across the road and a generally relaxed attitude. As in most places, the greatest danger comes from other drivers, not the roads. Mauritian drivers tend to have little consideration for each other, let alone for motorbikes. Buses are notorious for overtaking and then pulling in immediately ahead of other vehicles to pick up or drop off passengers; always show extra caution when a bus comes in sight. At night be aware you’ll face an assault course of ill-lit oncoming vehicles, totally unlit bikes and weaving pedestrians. Motorcyclists should also be prepared for the elements, as sudden rain showers can come out of clear skies.

Hitching
Hitching is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and let someone know where they are planning to go.
Getting a lift in Mauritius is subject to pretty much the same quirks of luck and fate that you experience hitching anywhere. The only place where it really does come in handy is Rodrigues. Since few people there own cars, hitching is a popular way to get around, especially on Sundays, when buses are few and far between. Those driving in Rodrigues will make friends by offering lifts to locals who’ll try and flag you down almost anywhere. Obviously, proceed with caution and don’t offer lifts to groups if you’re alone.

Bicycle
Cycling isn’t really a practical means of long-distance transport in Mauritius – there is simply too much traffic – but bikes are fine for short hops along the coast. Given that the coast is pleasantly flat, it’s amazing how much ground you can cover in a day. The coast roads are also quieter than those in the interior, so you can relax and take in the landscape.

In general, the roads are well maintained, but look out for potholes along country lanes. Avoid cycling anywhere at night, as most roads are poorly lit and traffic can be erratic.
You can rent bikes (usually mountain bikes) from most hotels and guesthouses and also from some tour agents and car-rental outlets in the main tourist centres such as Grand Baie, Flic en Flac and Trou d’Eau Douce. The cheapest deals will start at around Rs 100 per day. You’ll usually be asked for a deposit of Rs 5000, either in cash or by taking an imprint of your credit card. Most bikes are in pretty reasonable condition, but be sure to check the brakes, gears and saddle (some are mighty uncomfortable) before riding off into the blue-beyond. The bike should have a lock; use it, especially if you leave your bike at the beach and outside shops.

Climate & When To Go

Mauritius enjoys a typically tropical climate with year-round heat, although the southeast trade winds help it never to feel too muggy. The summer months are from December to April, when it can nevertheless be extremely humid, and the winter, such as it is, runs from May to November, and is cooler and drier.
The best months to visit Mauritius are May to early December. January and February, the peak cyclone months, are best avoided by water-sports enthusiasts and divers. Cyclones rarely hit Mauritius (although Rodrigues has suffered far more regularly than the mainland) but cyclones way out at sea can bring days of squally rain.
Coastal temperatures range between 25°C and 33°C in summer and between 18°C and 24°C in winter. On the plateau it will be some 5°C cooler. The highlands are also the wettest part of the island – it can rain here at any time of year, and even when it’s not raining the area can be cloaked in low-lying cloud.

When the winds are at their strongest in July and August it can be blustery on the east coast, though the breeze brings welcome relief in summer.
Apart from the Christmas-New Year peak, Mauritius doesn’t really have high and low seasons. The situation is more dependent on outside factors (such as the French school holidays, which cause a big increase in demand and prices in August).